How to drain water from a hydraulic accumulator

How to protect your toilet from defrosting without draining it

The end of the summer season is the right time to treat the cellar and basement so that a “mold kingdom” does not develop in them over the winter. First of all, in dry weather, take all the jars outside and dry the room, and then treat the walls and other structures with an antiseptic (this procedure must be repeated every few years).

As an antiseptic, you can use a solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 1 liter of water).

Those who like to solve problems in a radical way recommend using a sulfur smoke bomb to treat the basement. Seal all ventilation holes in the empty room, cover metal parts (if any) with polyethylene. Check that there is no one in the house (you will have to leave it for a day), and then light the fuse of the checker, go out and close the doors tightly. Upon return, thoroughly ventilate all areas.

Best answers

Before dismantling the toilet, flush the water in the usual way. then they shut off the pipe supplying the tank with water and take out the insides. If you forgot to drain, now you only have to scoop it up with a ladle.

Guy from the Future Future:

Should you drain the water from the tank or from the toilet itself? If from the tank, then simply turn off the water and press (pull) the drain. If from the toilet itself, then this is called a water seal (water plug so it doesn’t stink). You can drain the water from the water seal anywhere after dismantling the toilet. Or you don’t have to drain it.

First, turn off the water in the drain tank, then drain all the water from the tank, remove the flexible line and use a jar or scoop to scoop up water. How much can you drain? Then unscrew the fastening screws, remove the toilet corrugation and completely drain the water from the toilet.

If there is no separate valve for the toilet, then turn off the common one. Drain the tank, unscrew it and do what you need to do. There is no need to block the sewer - it is at an angle (pipe) and will not trample back. Just cover it with a rag so it doesn't stink.

I didn’t flush it at all - you just tilt the toilet towards the fan and the excess will drain out on its own, then carefully not tilting it too much to the side)...

Can't find a light?:

It won’t spill out anywhere—on the contrary, you’ll have to tilt it, gently holding it in your arms.

don't do what you don't know. Doing repairs for neighbors is a troublesome task

First, turn off the common valve in the apartment so that water does not flow into the toilet cistern.

Then drain the water from the tank, and only then remove the toilet.

IF YOU FORGOT TO DRAIN THE WATER FROM THE TANK -

there are only 5-10 liters of water - drain it into any sink or bucket,

You can also take a bath - the water is clean.

PLACE IT DIRECTLY INSIDE THE BATH WITHOUT TILTING.

THEN TILT AND EVEN TURN IT UP so it all comes together.

If you forgot water in the toilet itself, there are about TWO liters of water there.

Drain in the same way.

How can we make this into a catastrophe on a universal scale?

Entrust the matter to a specialist. Otherwise you'll drown your neighbors

When you unscrew it from the floor, tilt it towards the pipe, some of it will spill out, but you can take it out without incident.

Turn off the water to the flush tank, drain all the water from the tank, remove the tank, you can scoop the water out of the toilet, just soak it up with a rag and squeeze it out, then remove the toilet itself, maybe a little water will remain, no problem

turn to the specialists of ct-servis /services/kanalizaciya who will come, salt, remove, what needs to be trimmed, installed and use it for your health))) in such things, I try to entrust everything to those who do this professionally, change the mixer, light bulb or socket - it’s easy... but here... I wouldn’t risk it myself))) then scoop up the poop from yourself and from your neighbors, and then there’s someone to blame it on later)))

It’s strange that no one said about communicating vessels: First, as always, turn off the water and press the flush button to empty the tank.. Then take any flexible hose, for example an old flexible hose from a tap about a meter long, so that one end can reach the bottom toilet, hung over the top of the toilet and the second reached to the bottom of the bucket (to the floor). Pour a full hose of water from the tap. Close either end with your finger so that the water does not spill out. Immerse the end not covered with your finger into the toilet; lower the end closed with your finger into the bucket to the very bottom and release your finger .The water will flow from the toilet into the bucket. When the water stops flowing, raise the end of the hose from the toilet higher so that all the water goes into the bucket.

How to drain water from the water supply system for the winter - stages of work

Many users solve the problem of how to properly drain water from a water supply system for the winter in different ways; if the procedure was not previously structurally provided for, its implementation becomes more complicated. Some “Internet experts” recommend using a compressor to blow out the entire system to pump out water.

This advice raises serious doubts about its effectiveness due to the fact that water can be at the bottom of pipes and other components, and air can pass over it without touching the surface, and few people understand where and in what direction to blow the system. In addition, not every owner has a free compressor at his disposal, and the task of freeing pipes from water residues can be successfully solved without it.

Similar “useful” advice can be heard regarding household appliances regarding turning washing machines upside down, disassembling shower heads, etc.

Rice. 4 Winter valve in caissons for wells

Summer cottage water supply system

Removing water from the external system of a summer cottage or country house consists of the following stages:

For the winter, the submersible pump is usually removed from the pipes of the well or well, and the surface pumping station is also dismantled. At the same time, the submersible electric pump, external pump and hydraulic accumulator of the station are freed from water residues, dried and stored in the house, utility room, barn.
If the owner is absent from the house for a short period of time in winter and does not dismantle the equipment, the following methods are used to drain water from the external pipeline (it is assumed that the underground water supply is laid with a slope towards the source):

A surface tee with a ball valve built into the pressure pipeline is used. To drain the water, the tap is turned and it flows into a caisson or well; in the first case, the presence of water masses in a closed chamber is undesirable, so it is collected in a convenient container and poured out. In a deep well, if it is not possible to go down into it, the ball valve is turned with the help of a long stick, a rod, or a rope tied to the handles.

The industry produces a similar type of device with a built-in rod for opening the shut-off valve.

Rice. 5 Operating principle of the automatic drain valve

There are manual shut-off valves on sale, which are a coupling with a hole, put on a pressure pipeline, in the side wall of which a hole is pre-drilled. The drain is closed with a valve to which a strong cord is attached; when it is pulled out, the plate rises, clears the hole, and the water pours out from the side of the pressure pipeline.

Another variation of this design is a check valve paired with a drain valve, installed in a section of the pressure pipeline or after an electric pump that does not have an internal valve.

The automatic shut-off valve design consists of a spring-loaded ball in a seat that shuts off the outlet when the high pressure system is in operation. As soon as the pressure weakens when the automatic control of the pumping equipment is turned off, the spring pushes the ball away from the outlet fitting and water flows out through the vacated hole.

Rice. 6 Automatic winter drain valves Debe G15 and an example of their placement

Instead of a regular check valve, you can use an electric valve to drain water from a water supply system in a country house - it is installed at the inlet of the pressure pipeline or the outlet of a submersible electric pump, connected to the power supply and opened by pressing a button.
The most cost-effective drainage method is to punch a small hole in the wall of the pressure pipeline, wrap it with electrical tape (due to small water losses, this can not be done), and if it is necessary to dewater the pipeline, clear it of the obstacle.

Rice. 7 Manual winter valve for a well with a control rod - design, location

Central and autonomous water supply

The internal water supply of the house is designed in such a way that the slopes towards its lowest point are observed, and to drain into the sewer, two taps are used separately for cold and hot water.

Operations to remove water from pipes, electrical and plumbing equipment are carried out in the following sequence:

Disconnect all automation from the power supply.
Open all the valve taps on the faucets in the bathroom, shower, and kitchen, setting them to the middle position - thus freeing the hydraulic accumulator (its position should be strictly vertical) from accumulated water.
If there are any, open the drain valves under the sink; if the hydraulic tank is installed on legs, turn on the valve under it.
Then open the common taps for draining cold and hot water into the sewer.
Drain the water from the water heater using a bypass bypass, a special pressure relief valve (raise its flag), or various shut-off valves.

Rice. 8 Winter valve with movable damper Gilex Focus 32

To free the water seal of the toilet from water, take a large rag with good absorbency, and after eliminating the water masses, plug the hole with dry cloth. To create a frost-free water seal, you can use antifreeze or a salt water solution and pour it down the drain.
The shower head is lowered down the cabin or bathtub, freeing it from water residues.
Unscrew the caps of the coarse and fine filters and remove the cartridges, leaving them untouched or washing them if they are heavily soiled.
Empty the siphons of the kitchen sink, bathtub or shower stall from water by unscrewing the drain caps at the bottom; if unpleasant odors appear in the room, the drain holes are closed with plugs or rags in plastic bags. As with the toilet, you can pour antifreeze into the drains or a glass of water with two tablespoons of salt mixed in it.
In the washing machine, unscrew the plug at the bottom of the front side to drain the water and place a container with low sides under it to collect liquid, and open the doors for better drying.
With a dishwasher the situation is more complicated; you may need to unscrew the water supply and drain into the sewer, lay them horizontally on the floor and absorb the leaking liquid with a rag.

Rice. 9 Drainage diagram in the internal water supply

Exchange contacts with neighbors

If you still don’t know your neighbors in your summer cottage, correct this immediately. This is necessary not only to fit into the framework of social etiquette, but also for mutual assistance “in case something happens.” Exchange phone numbers or other contact information with your neighbors. Agree to contact each other if you suspect something is wrong with a neighboring property.

In addition to all of the above, do not forget about the flower garden: dig up and store perennial plants that require it, cover roses and other flowers. Read about what else needs to be done in the garden in our material:

Myth 2. The larger the volume of the accumulator, the better.

This phrase can be found quite often in descriptions of hydraulic accumulators.
Variations - the hydraulic accumulator creates constant pressure, etc. Let's start with the fact that a membrane (rubber bulb) in a metal casing is simply not able to create any pressure, either constant or “variable”. The pressure is created only by the pump. Whatever pressure the pump provides, the same pressure will be in the accumulator. The only thing that can be said is that the hydraulic accumulator, in the absence of water flow, maintains the pressure created in it and contributes to its smooth decrease with the start of water collection and a smooth increase after closing all the taps. Those.

without it, the pressure would change instantly, but with it it changes smoothly, due to a change in the hydraulic volume by stretching and compressing the membrane. This is the main point of using it. For the correct functioning of the system with the ubiquitous pressure switch, a smooth change in pressure is required, which is ensured using a hydraulic accumulator.

There is no need to talk about constant pressure in a standard system with a pressure switch and a hydraulic accumulator. The whole point of the functioning of such a system comes down to the fact that the pressure is constantly changing, due to which the operation of the pump is automated using a pressure switch. There can be constant pressure only with a constant flow rate, but as soon as the water flow rate changes (an additional tap is opened or closed), the pressure instantly changes.

All that a hydraulic accumulator can do is to give the system inertia, which is what is actually required of it. Constant pressure in systems with variable flow can only be achieved by using a frequency converter, when the pump rotation speed changes depending on the water flow.

So much the better for what? For the accumulator itself, for system reliability, for the pump? A large-volume hydraulic tank is more expensive, takes up more space, and the cost of replacing the membrane is higher. Only disadvantages.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with: Antiseptic for walls against mold: effective remedies against fungus

But there is a certain logic in the statement and it lies in the following: the larger the volume of the hydraulic tank, the less often the pump will turn on. And the less often the pump is turned on, the longer it will work, since the service life will be preserved (the electric motor starting mode is the most intense - a jump in the starting current, high starting torque, increased load on the pump parts).

However, on the other hand, it is logical to assume that there is a certain limit on the volume of the accumulator at which it is necessary to stop. After all, it never occurs to anyone to buy a hydraulic accumulator with a capacity of thousands of liters for a private home. Although with such a tank the pump may turn on only once or twice a day or not turn on at all. Do not forget that the useful volume of the hydraulic accumulator is about 30%.

The misconception is that even if we reduce the number of pump starts per hour by half (increasing the volume of the accumulator), the pump will not last twice as long. Even knowing the number of starts per hour, we cannot estimate the total operating time in each cycle, which is much more important for the resource.

Engine manufacturers do not provide a certain limit of on/off operation for the entire service life, after which the engine fails or requires repair. The engine life is affected by the total operating time and thermal conditions. But at the same time, it is really important that the number of short-term pump starts per hour does not exceed the values specified by the manufacturer (this data is in the technical documentation for the pump).

If you pay attention only to the external aspect, then it is difficult to disagree with this statement. If we are talking about standard hydraulic tanks with a replaceable membrane, then in appearance they really look alike, like twin brothers.

But as often happens, the most important thing is inside. Although hydraulic accumulators have a really simple design, even here there is room for nuances. This is why some hydraulic tanks lose air and the membrane fails after a year or two, while others hold pressure and last much longer.

We invite you to read: Which bath oil is right for you, we will help you make a choice

Read more about the differences between expensive and cheap hydraulic accumulators.

The water supply system (not to be confused with the heating system) can work without an air vent without any problems. Air bubbles with properly laid pipes are removed through the tap during water tapping. And if the pipes are laid incorrectly (with the possibility of air pockets forming), an air vent will not save the situation.

Note that pressure switches can also work with air (for example, installed on compressor equipment).

You can install an air vent to reassure yourself, but it has no real effect.

Preparing the toilet.

The largest water plug in terms of volume is in the toilet, and this is understandable - the largest traffic is through the toilet. In addition to the fact that this plug is the largest, it is located in the elbow of the ceramic toilet bowl, which has very low deformation properties. Simply put, when the water in the toilet bowl freezes, the bottom of the knee simply breaks off. Sometimes this happens very nicely and neatly, so that the broken part can be glued back in place, but it’s better not to take risks.

When preserving a dacha for the winter:

flush the water from the toilet tank several times,
Shut off the water supply to the toilet tank and flush the water from the tank.
unscrew the lid of the tank and make sure that there is almost no water left in the tank; if you wish, you can remove the remaining water with a rag or sponge (this is not necessary if there is not much water left in the tank).
Scoop out as much water as possible from the toilet bowl. It is best to use a special scoop for this, made with a wallpaper knife from a plastic bottle, shaped like a ladle. However, you can scoop out water using any available means.
Remove any remaining water from the bowl with an old rag or sponge.
To prevent odors from the sewer network from entering the house in winter, tightly plug the hole in the bowl with a rag.
You can also throw some rags on top and even close the lid, although this is not necessary:

How to mothball a well

All owners of storage septic tanks know that inside plastic tanks, aerobic and anaerobic bacteria live and work hard. Throughout the summer, every day they process sewage waste, thereby supplying the farm with purified water and high-quality human waste.

Preservation of an autonomous sewer system is an important stage in preparation for winter

But after some time, winter will come, the storage system will remain unprotected and living bacteria may freeze. What to do? Is it possible to leave the septic tank over the winter like this? Is it even possible to install a septic tank in winter? We will now try to answer these and other questions that interest you.

If you do not plan to come to your dacha during the cold season, then you need to mothball the well. This needs to be done in September-October (depending on the climatic characteristics of the region), before the first frost sets in. The sequence of work should be as follows:

Draining the pumping station for the winter.
Lifting a submersible pump from a well.
Drying the pump.
Draining water from the hydraulic tank.
Placing the station for storage.

Please note: every design of a water intake system must provide a point for draining water from the pipeline. Without this, safe and durable operation of a water well is impossible. In order for the pumping station to work properly, you need to drain the water from the entire system for the winter - this is called conservation. To do this, the following work is carried out:

Removing water from the pipeline line (you need to drain it from all plumbing fixtures that are in the dacha);
Water is removed from the pipes by opening the taps (must be provided for in the design of the autonomous system);
Pumping water from the toilet siphon and sink.

To prepare the pump for the winter period, you need to make sure that after pumping out the liquid, the inside of the station is completely dry. After this, find a warm place for the equipment where the equipment will be stored safely for several months.

If you plan to use a country house and an autonomous water supply system in winter, the pump must be prepared for winter in a timely manner. For this purpose, the well must be insulated. The choice of insulation should depend on the climatic characteristics of the region: if the ground freezes deeply, it is better to use polystyrene or polystyrene foam; in milder climates, ordinary straw or sawdust will do.

In this case, preparation does not involve draining the liquid from the system, but if prepared incorrectly, the pumping station at the dacha may freeze over in winter. Experts recommend thinking through this point at the design stage. It is better to place the equipment (including the drainage pump) in a special caisson from the very beginning, which is much easier to prepare for the cold season.

When operating in winter, experts recommend lowering a heating wire into the mouth where the station is located, which will heat the pipes and pump, preventing the liquid from freezing. You can also install a temperature sensor, based on which you can turn the heating cable on and off to maintain an optimal microclimate inside the well.

If you have any doubts about how to drain the pumping station for the winter and that preparing the pumping station for winter at your dacha yourself is beyond your capabilities and you cannot complete the procedure without the risk of damaging the water intake system and equipment, seek qualified help from specialists from specialized organizations.

This will help you reliably and professionally protect your system from the cold. The craftsmen will arrive at a convenient time and prepare the equipment in the shortest possible time, taking into account whether you will be using the country house during the cold period. At the same time, the technology for carrying out preparatory work is extremely simple, provided you have the skills to handle water intake equipment and plumbing.

You can view and order pumps on this website All automation is here Leave a request for a heat exchanger calculation in an hour

One of the important issues of caring for a septic tank is preparing it for winter. If you do not plan to use the container for wastewater treatment in cold weather, then it should be preserved. How to do this clearly with the help of expert advice and videos is described and shown step by step in the article.

Some owners fear for the integrity of the septic tank tank in winter. As an argument, they give the example of a heating system that, when defrosted, “breaks” the pipes and fails. However, a septic tank behaves differently in cold weather. If installed correctly, it is protected from such damage. The following installation is considered correct:

Depth - about 2 m. In cold regions even lower, depending on the depth of soil freezing.
The supply pipes are located at an angle, thanks to which the wastewater does not stagnate in them and manages to maintain the temperature on the way from the home to the container.
If necessary, pipes and containers can be insulated with foam plastic or expanded clay.

Attention! These criteria are considered relevant for any material from which a treatment plant is usually made - metal, concrete, plastic.

With regular use of the sewer, the activity of bacteria in the container maintains the temperature above zero. But if you need to leave your home during the cold season for a period of 1 month or longer, then the septic tank should be mothballed. Factory installations of autonomous sewage systems require a standard procedure. It differs slightly depending on the manufacturer.

We suggest you read: Is spinach planted before winter?

The septic tank should only be preserved if you are going to be away from the house for a long time.

The most common defect is the complete removal of liquid, similar to the heating system. But this way you will only ruin the septic tank:

In the spring, groundwater can push an empty barrel out of its nest and disrupt the integrity of the entire filtration system. The side stops of the container will not help either.
Shifting soil on the site will put excessive stress on the empty container, deforming or even breaking its seal. Soil movements occur due to changes in temperature or groundwater.

Another mistake: trying to better insulate the station, the owners fill its cover with soil or sand. However, this increases the risk of heavy particles getting inside, which will affect the correct operation of biological treatment.

Advice. It is best to start preserving the septic tank before the first frost.

Preservation of Astra septic tank

Open the cover and inspect the cameras. If there is less water in them than 3/4 of the total volume of the container, then add at least to this level.
Rinse compartments containing non-degradable particles and household waste with clean water.
Clean the septic tank stabilizer using a sump pump.
Disconnect from electricity, remove and store in a warm place the air compressor and, if equipped, a clean water pump.
Prepare several 1.5 or 2 liter plastic bottles.
Fill with sand so that when lowered into the water they act like floats. Tie the necks with twine, tie all the ropes together and secure them with a knot somewhere on the edge of the container. The bottles should be evenly distributed over the surface of the water.
Close the container with a lid and insulate it.
Rags, old things, polystyrene foam, hay, etc. are suitable for these purposes.

The procedure is similar to preserving the Astra product, but has some differences:

completely disconnect the station from the network;
remove bags, plastic, and wooden debris from the cells;
clean the stabilizer chamber using the built-in airlift;
dismantle the compressor and pump (if provided);
If necessary, increase the water level in the chambers to 2/3;
insulate the station cover.

Attention! Biotreatment in a Topas septic tank operates normally without insulation, even at -15°C ambient. If it gets colder, be sure to cover the station lid.

Self-made cleaning stations usually have simple control systems, and therefore are easier to preserve. Adjust the exact algorithm based on the design of your specific septic tank. Minimum steps for conservation:

As with industrial septic tanks, first disconnect the unit from the power source.
Disconnect and remove any equipment that could be damaged by freezing temperatures.
Check that the amount of water in the septic tank is at least 75%.
If the unit is mounted on a concrete slab, drain the fluid from the chambers.
Additionally, insulate the structure if the climate in your region is cold in winter.

Advice. In order for bacteria to survive in winter, among other things, they need air. Therefore, when insulating, do not overdo it with insulation. In any material you need to make several holes for ventilation.

The process of “awakening” a septic tank is no more difficult than its preservation. In fact, it implies the same actions, only in reverse order:

removal of insulation;
dismantling the rope-bottle mechanism;
returning to their original place the removed devices - pump and air compressor;
inclusion of the station in the network.

Depreservation is usually carried out in early spring, simultaneously with the start of work on the garden plot. To “wake up” completely, bacteria need 2-3 days.

Advice. Sometimes, after reactivation, it is appropriate to add new bacteria to the system. If the septic tank begins to work more slowly, then ordinary fermented milk products will help correct this. Add a liter to each chamber.

Preserving a septic tank is a last resort if you are leaving your home for a long time. Even rare use of sewerage in winter will maintain the normal functioning of microorganisms. Taking into account the small losses of electricity, this is still more advisable than preserving the septic tank for the winter.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nx9xK2bXxmA

How to preserve a well for the winter - this issue must be resolved before the onset of cold weather and during the dry season. Well conservation is used if you decide not to use it in winter.

This means that you will no longer be able to use water either in the house or outside. The well will be tightly closed and access to it will be terminated. The water supply leading from it to the house will be shut off. If you decide on this option, let’s take a closer look at what methods exist for preserving a well.

How to drain the toilet for the winter

You may need to install or replace a toilet under a variety of circumstances: moving, renovation, or unexpected breakdown. If you don’t have time to wait for a plumber or want to save money, then it’s quite possible to do it yourself.

Preparing your cottage for winter - 15 important things you might have forgotten about

In order not to end up with nothing at the beginning of the next season, you need to properly close the current season. It's time to carry out work that will help preserve the suburban area until spring. So, we’ll tell you how to prepare your dacha for winter.

Surely, you have already started to complete the bulk of your work. We have no doubts about your dacha experience, and, nevertheless, we suggest you check - what if something “went over your head”?

Water supply system conservation process

In order to avoid problems with the pipeline in the country, you should completely drain the water from the water supply system.

The whole point of the manipulations before leaving your own country house for the cold winter is as follows:

disconnect the pump from the system;
drain the liquid from it and store the unit in a warm cellar;
pump everything out of the pipeline by opening the valves on the lower branches of the system; if there are none, then remove and blow out the pipeline elements themselves;
dry all plumbing fixtures, it is important that no moisture remains anywhere;
Disconnect the dishwasher and washing machine and remove the water through the small drain hole.

It is also necessary to preserve the street water supply, while pipes not dug into the ground must be thoroughly blown out with a compressor, and the fittings must be thoroughly dried. Remove the shut-off valves and remove all moisture; if removal is not possible, then simply leave the taps open and move the lever to the half-open position.

Pipe preservation

When preparing your dacha for winter, be sure to drain all appliances and preserve them. To do this, the water in the house is shut off and all electricity that powers the water heating elements is turned off and the liquid is drained from the toilet tank. It is imperative to check whether the outlet taps of the main water supply route are open.

Prepare your lawn for winter

The first step is to clear the lawn of debris. A layer of fallen leaves or branches will inhibit photosynthesis and can also provide an excellent home for pathogens and pests. The lawn also needs to be mulched to preserve the sown grass and reduce moisture evaporation. Do not forget about cutting the grass - this procedure in the middle zone can be carried out until the end of October. Moreover, the mowing height should be 1-2 cm higher than usual (i.e., if during the season you cut the lawn to 4 cm, now the grass height should be 5-6 cm).

In the first half of October, do not forget to feed the lawn with phosphorus-potassium or special autumn lawn fertilizer (according to the instructions). If holes and bald spots have formed on the cover, they need to be “patched” by adding soil and sowing seeds.

Communities Boys and Girls Blog How to protect the toilet from defrosting without draining it

Comments 163

Apparently it’s been stolen from some dacha forum) I have a rustic one at my dacha. It's not bad at all, it doesn't even smell much

We drain the water from the tank, disconnect the supply, and use a plunger to squeeze the water out of the siphon. Even if a drop remains, it will simply freeze and that’s all. Is this a problem?

It’s completely stupid to build a well-maintained toilet on the street

even at +5 it’s not a thrill to sit on the toilet; it’s cold and doesn’t sit on the toilet

Such smart advice, I’m shocked. Buy a pack of salt, dissolve it in warm water and pour it into the toilet and all the siphons in the washbasins. Cheap and cheerful!

Previously, there were amenities on the street) Now I’m completing the cottage, everything inside, everything is convenient and thoughtful)))

It’s still more pleasant to fight us in the fresh air))

yeah maybe in the summer and in the winter? -25?)))))

I'm not in the negative there)

Elementary. Just like a car. Pour antifreeze into the reservoir.

Well, if it’s a crack, then definitely change it, but if it’s just from the inside, then fix it, it’s not difficult.

So, is it difficult to change? This is just ridiculous to discuss.

what if it is no longer available?

You remove the mechanism and go to the store

I heard a story about how, quite a long time ago, in a toilet at a factory, someone thought of pouring a bucket of solvent into the toilet... then a man came in, sat down for a long time, lit a match and threw the match into the toilet, not suspecting a surprise... they say he took out the stall door while running out)))) I was lost for a long time imagining picture)

I heard such a fable))

because I don’t care to be funny on my ass...

But free hair removal)

on the ass? is it needed at all?

As an option, antifreeze is used for heating, it does not freeze in ice.

Check the well

The well does not require special preparation for winter. But if the water has acquired an unpleasant odor of hydrogen sulfide (the smell of rotten eggs) or a cloudy sediment, cleaning and disinfection measures must be taken. You can probably handle a small well (2-3 rings) on your own. Using a drainage or pump pump, pump out the water, go down into the well, and clean the walls of dirt. Then disinfect the well.

To disinfect a well, you can use tablets designed to purify pool water. They are dissolved in a bucket of water (1 tablet per 1 well ring), then the mixture is poured into a well filled with water and left for 6-8 hours. After this, the water is pumped out again.

If you clean the well in the fall, it will not be necessary to do this in the spring - regular disinfection is sufficient.

Prepare the water supply

The water supply system at the dacha is especially vulnerable in winter, so you need to take care of its safety in advance. If you do not plan to use it in winter, then the water from the pipes will have to be drained. To do this, you need to turn off the water supply and open the drain taps at the lowest points so that the water comes out by gravity. If there are no drain valves, use an auto compressor. To blow out the pipes in your dacha for the winter, close all the valves on the manifold and attach a compressor to the pipe. Then you need to create a pressure of 3-4 atmospheres and open one of the collector taps - under air pressure, water will come out of the pipe. Repeat the procedure with each line.

To protect the pipeline outdoors and in unheated rooms, leave the valves slightly open and dismantle the mixers. Also remember to drain the water from the filters.

If the pipes are not buried deep enough, they must be insulated. To do this, place sheets of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene over the place where the pipes pass and secure it by pressing it down with bricks and digging it in.

Draining water from pipes for the winter

I plan to dig a well at the dacha and make a normal water supply for the house. Now we have a summer water supply (common well) - water is released in May and drained in the fall. I'm tired of it - I want to come in the fall, winter and spring and at the same time be able to properly wash the dishes and take a shower. Pipes under the foundation have already been installed into the house (polypropylene). Buried underground at a freezing depth (1.5 meters).

But there are a lot of questions. I don’t live in the country all the time. I mostly go there on weekends.

For example, winter, temperature -15 degrees. Let's imagine that there is already a well and everything is connected, but the water has not yet been let into the house. Of course, by the time I arrived, the whole house was frozen. I start heating - for example, after a few hours the house is already warm, + 20. That is. You can now give water. I supply water from a well (there is a submersible pump), the hydraulic accumulator is filled, everything is fine.

I stayed at the dacha for several days - and here the problem arises of how to drain the water from the entire system, because when I leave, the house will completely cool down. It is clear that the pipes are buried at freezing depth - and the water will not freeze there. But what to do with the water that is in the pipes inside the house? When the house cools down, all the water will freeze and the pipes will burst.

What solution do I see? The hydraulic accumulator should not be located in the house, but somewhere on the street and buried at freezing depth. Its control should be somehow displayed in some kind of panel, to which I will have easy access. Also, next to the hydraulic accumulator there should be some kind of device (I don’t know if there are any in nature), which, when turned on, pushes all the water out of the pipes in the system (of course, with the taps open) under air pressure. Those. This is not just a compressor, but some kind of device through which water passes. I understand that if you have access, you can connect a compressor to the tee and just blow everything out, but it will all be buried at 1.5 m - I wouldn’t want to constantly climb there. Those. in fact, it turns out that in the winter, before leaving, I turn off the hydraulic accumulator, open all the taps, turn on this device that blows all the water out of the pipes, then turn everything off and calmly leave, not thinking that there is water left in the house. It all comes down to simply pressing buttons.

Is it even possible to do this in my situation? Or am I approaching the solution to my problem incorrectly and there are already ready-made solutions?

Answers from experts

Take a toilet brush and use it to push water down the pipe. Almost all the water will go away, there will be some. And then a good remedy, I use SANOX, pour it on for a few minutes.

directly with gloves and directly into water with a special chemical agent. I don’t pump anything out and everything is washed away

don’t start it and the duckling helps a lot + a regular toilet brush, go for it)))

buy those chemicals. The product can be washed off with water, and if anything happens, gloves + some kind of brush and that’s it. What's so complicated about that?

If you don’t want to sweat yourself, pour in a 33% solution of hydrochloric acid and leave it for several hours and you will be happy

buy 4 different products, then pour them in, and the plunger will finish its job)))

You just need a good toilet cleaner. I bought it here, I don’t have to drain the water. everything washes well. I just pour it in for a few minutes

xylitol for toilets and no need to climb anywhere, eats everything off in 10 minutes

Check in often, use special tools and there will be no problems.

Think correctly if the toilet is very dirty and there will be no build-up without pumping. Wear gloves, soak with a sponge, then pour in Silite for toilets, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then take a steel wool and go ahead. This is for heavy dirt.

How to prepare a sewer system for winter in an unheated country house

One of the weak points of a dacha that is unheated in winter, or more precisely, a dacha where no one lives in winter, is the sewer system, of course, if there is one.

The fact is that even if no one uses the sewer system in winter and the sewer pipes are laid with the correct slope, then there is still water in the siphons and elbows, the so-called water plug.

The purpose of the water plug is to keep odors and gases from the sewer out of the house. This very necessary and useful quality in summer can turn into harmful in winter. Because water, due to its physical properties, expands when it freezes and can damage siphons and elbows.

To ensure that the sewage system works properly next year, in the fall, before leaving for the city for the winter, it is advisable to perform several simple steps:

How to drain water from a hydraulic accumulator for the winter

A hydraulic accumulator (hydraulic tank) is a metal container designed for connection to water supply pumps, inside which a reserve amount of water is stored at a given pressure.
By equipping the pump with a hydraulic accumulator, you will always have a small supply of drinking water in your house, even in the absence of electricity. In this article we will look at a hydraulic accumulator for water supply systems, study its purpose, design and principle of operation. You will also learn about the types of such equipment, the features of its selection, calculation and connection.

Preparing the toilet.

When preserving a dacha for the winter:

flush the water from the toilet tank several times,
Shut off the water supply to the toilet tank and flush the water from the tank.
unscrew the lid of the tank and make sure that there is almost no water left in the tank; if you wish, you can remove the remaining water with a rag or sponge (this is not necessary if there is not much water left in the tank).
Scoop out as much water as possible from the toilet bowl. It is best to use a special scoop for this, made with a wallpaper knife from a plastic bottle, shaped like a ladle. However, you can scoop out water using any available means.
Remove any remaining water from the bowl with an old rag or sponge.
To prevent odors from the sewer network from entering the house in winter, tightly plug the hole in the bowl with a rag.
You can also throw some rags on top and even close the lid, although this is not necessary: